Arizona: Land of Contrasts

From Phoenix to phantoms, Arizona is a state that lives by contrasts.

The sophistication of the capital city, as well as smaller communities such as Tucson and Scottsdale, hold the political and cultural segments of most of the state. However, its rich environmental and indigenous people have left a legacy for the modern world as well.

The Phoenix area, located on the upper edge of the Sonoran Desert,  was settled about 1,700 years ago by the Hohokam people who built a sophisticated series of waterways to irrigate crops. They eventually disappeared, perhaps because of a sustained drought, although no one knows the precise reason.

It took until the 1860s for the area to be reborn, with a farmer named Jack Swilling forming an irrigation company to construct canals to bring lifegiving water to the area. The name "Phoenix" -- after the mythical bird that is reborn from its own fineral pyre -- was selected to represent the strength of the newest settlement.

In 1881, the city was incorporated. The beginning of the tourism boom and a steady rise in people moving here eventually led to Phoenix becoming the seventh largest city in the nation.

The state also is home to several Indian reservations and numerous Indian communities. Some welcome tourists, others are quite private. Many of the Indian communities connect natural elements -- such as the towering sauguro cactus seen above -- to their tribal religious and cultural events.

Hot air ballooning and gorgeous scenery are two of the biggest attractions in Monument Valley, and the splendors of the Grand Canyon create one of America's top tourist draws. And, a mixture of natural markings and glyphs carved into the rock surfaces by indigenous people long ago are a drawing card at the Painted Rock State Park.

ON THE WEB

• Colleges and universities
• State parks
• Lodging connections
• Business and finance
• Jim Harvey's Arizona history column

A Lemon Frock and a Cold Wadadli

April L. Dowd photos

ENGLISH HARBOUR, Antigua -- It had been a long time since she had been to Shirley Heights for a Sunday steel drum orchestra concert. Lavinia wanted to make a good impression on anyone who might notice her.

Yes, the lemon yellow frock, she thought. And the matching yellow picture hat. They would be perfect.

She missed Lionel. He hadn't been particularly fond of the steel drums -- "Bloody noisy cans," he'd called them in his grumpily good-natured way -- but he was kind enough to take her up to the old British fort every few weeks. He contented himself with the spectacular view of English Harbour far down below while she was busy enjoying the music and the visitors who flocked to Antigua in the early months each year to luxuriate in the brilliant sunshine when coverlets of snow were the order of the day back home in Britain and Australia and the United States.

It had been more than a year since Lionel had passed on, but a return to England still was out of the question even at her advanced age. A life spent mostly in the British West Indies as the wife of a foreign service official didn't exactly make one want to move on, even if a spouse of nearly 50 years no longer was here to share the daily adventures.

Lavinia had finally grown restless and felt the need of an outing to a familiar spot. Her driver parked the car at the foot of the path leading up to the ruins of the old stone observation post that had been the guardian of the British Navy's Caribbean fleet under the iconic 18th century naval hero Horatio Nelson.

Lavinia paid her $4 US -- odd, she thought, how the Yankee dollar had become the common currency in the Caribbean -- to the polite young men in the wooden guard shack, receiving in exchange an entry ticket that also entitled her to one cocktail or a beer in the former fort building that now served as a pub. As if that would entice her.

Lavinia skirted the building and made her way along the steep rock ledge where the plateau fell sharply away. She wanted to stake out a spot next to the covered pavilion where tourist children already were performing those little show-off dances children often do when music is played in public places. Meanwhile, their suburned parents were queing up at the various rudimentary barbecue stands that dotted the grounds.

As the rhythm of the steel drums gathered momentum and the rays of the descending sun glanced off the mountains guarding English Harbour, Lavinia swayed almost imperceptibly to the beat while less inhibited visitors clapped hands and wiggled hips in time to the sensuous music. And, she thought of Lionel.

Of course, all this is mostly supposition.

The crowd was real and the details described are real, and the woman in the lemon yellow dress and hat was most assuredly very real the evening I stood on Shirley Heights, even though she seemed to have a mystical knack of never being in a clear line of sight for the camera.

I could only imagine the details of her life, loathe as I was to intrude on her obvious pleasureable solitude in the midst of a crowd of jabbering Yanks, Aussies and Britions, most of them jarringly dressed in shorts or jeans and T-shirts and athletic shoes of every hue.

Her ensemble was too calculated, too British in the way we have come to know over the years. But she was so perfect in so many ways, a sharp reminder that Antigua remains a British island in ways at once obvious and imperceptible despite being granted its independence in 1981.

Begin with the place names -- English Harbour, Nelson's Dockyard National Park, Clarence House, Shirley Heights, Dow's Hill Interpretation Center, Fort Berkeley and the tiny communities of Gray's Farm, All Saints, Falmouth Harbor, Dickenson Bay and so forth all smack of English heritage. As does the national language -- "Broken English," explained Cleo, a smiling waitress at one dining spot when asked what Antigua's official language is.

And pay attention to the most popular game on the island: cricket, the British game that became an Antiguan obsession. The official season lasts from January to July. Matches are played all over the island, but the best spot for visitors to watch is at the beautifully landscaped Antigua Recreation Ground near the V.C. Bird International Airport, named for the first post-independence prime minister.

The only real city on this island is St. John's, capital of the tiny nation of 67,000 people officially known as Antigua and Barbuda. Together, they total 443 square miles, smaller than Singapore, Bahrain and Guam, larger than Bermuda, Monaco and Vatican City. It also is home to many expatriate Brits who found the warm breezes of the Leeward Islands preferable to the North Atlantic gales of their homeland.

St. John's most striking edifice is the white, baroque-towered St. John's Cathedral, the current structure built in 1845 after being rebuilt following earthquakes in 1683 and in 1745.

On neighboring Barbuda, which is mostly uninhabited but reachable by daily scheduled boat trips, the world's largest community of frigate birds lives in a wildlife sanctuary of some 5,000 of their kind (also known as man o' war birds for their habit of raiding other birds' catch). They share the island with 170 other bird species, making Barbuda a paradise for bird watchers, photographers and artists.

Antigua (no matter what you hear elsewhere, it's pronounced ann/tee/gah) is an island of beaches and churches, of goats and uniforms.

It boasts 365 beaches, one for each day of the year, many of them with satin-like sand. And, there is at least a rudimentary church serving every conceivable religion and sect: United Methodist, Roman Catholic, Moravian, Anglican, Lutheran, Church of Christ, Baptist, Wesleyan, Mennonite ...

Thousands of goats roam freely through fields and along roads, turned loose by their owners each morning to graze and indoctrinated so well they can sort themselves out and find their way back to their respective homes at sundown. And flocks of school children, from those in elementary grades through the older kids at little Antigua State College, wear crisp school uniforms that smooth out their class and financial differences.

If you're into strenuous vacation activities, Antigua offers plenty of swimming, boating, diving and fishing. If you're staying at one of the lush private resorts that provide pools, tennis courts, casinos and other activity venues for their guests, so much the better.

Organized events are a major draw, too, no matter where you're lodging. The annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta in late April, for example, is a showcase for large, classic wooden sailing ships that dominated the Caribbean in times past, tacking on the prevailing trade winds as they journeyed along the routes of commerce from island to island.

That is followed in late April and early May by the annual Antigua Sailing Week that draws regal sailing ships and sleek-hulled sloops from throughout the world for shows and races.

In late July and early August, the revels of Antigua Carnival take over, and the usually laid-back pace of life gets turned up in the form of parties, festivals and concerts.

Historic sites are foolers, usually modest -- which means not turned into commercial gimmicks. Betty's Hope, for example, is a fully restored sugar mill that lets visitors know what life was like at Sir Christopher Codrington's sugar plantation that was the island's first back in the 1600s. At one time the island was punctuated by close to 200 cane-processing windmills. Today there still are nearly 100, most now used as houses, shops and restaurants.

The food, even in the little hamlets and villages that dot the rolling hills and deep valleys of this coral island, tends toward the pan-Caribbean sort … lots of seafood and chicken, a few goat dishes, plenty of stews and casseroles that appeal to British appetities. However, it's not impossible to find some elements of ancient vegetarian food that survived from the time of the island's Arawak settlements in the early A.D. years. The argicultural-minded Arawaks had succeeded the Siboney ("stone people") of the B.C. years, and in turn were succeeded by the aggressive Caribs whose influence is evident throughout the Caribbean.

In lieu of an indigenous liquor (Puerto Rico has its rum, Sant Maarten its guavaberry liquor, etc.), the Antigua Brewery Ltd. turns out a fine beer called Wadadli, evocative of Heineken's best.

If the pace seems a bit much, stick around for the National Warri Festival each October and November. It celebrates a board game brought here along with the men and women imported from West Africa to work on the Caribbean sugar plantations of the 19th century. Think watching a backgammon tournament.

With a cold Wadadli in hand.

ON THE WEB

• Island Hopping Guide
• Welcome to Antigua & Barbuda
• Antigua News & Weather
• Antigua Sun newspaper
• Antigua Observer newspaper


English Harbour viewed from Shirley Heights

Gulf Coast Florida: More Than Rodents and Rockets

William M. Dowd photo

TAMPA/ST. PETERSBURG, FL -- See DisneyWorld, Epcot and environs if you plan to visit Florida. After all, if you believe the advertising hype they're the only things to see in Florida.

OK, they advertise the Miami/Ft. Lauderdale area, too. But for now, let's look across the state at the Gulf Coast -- that stretch of sun-kissed land that lies along the west coast of the Florida peninsula. This is Florida, beyond Disney World and Cape Canaveral -- beyond rodents and rockets.

Once you get below the Panhandle -- the  location of the state capital of Tallahassee -- you hit a string of charming waterfront communities such as Tarpon Springs (a center for sponge fishing and Greek culture), Clearwater (and its beachfront shops and restaurants on Clearwater Beach),  St. Petersburg, Ft. Myers and Naples.

The Tampa Bay area is the largest Gulf Coast metropolis. The cities of St. Petersburg and Tampa, the latter slightly inland, flank the bay. It's a boom area that offers business and residences ranging from the cosmopolitan to the casual. Florid Old Florida architecture abounds, but there are more modern looks as well, such as The Pier off St. Petersburg, a multi-storied inverted pyramid that house shops, nightspots and an aquarium. It's connected to the mainland by its own causeway (seen above).

Colleges and universities abound, along with a raft of museum such as the fabulous Salvador Dali Museum in St. Pete and a 'living museum" such as Ybor City, the onetime cigar-making town that now is a rejuvenated tourist attraction in Tampa itself. Make a point of visiting there for the nightlife, as well as the docent-guided tours and the Cuban sandwiches that take crusty bread and cold cuts to a new level.

Pro sports are big in the area, from the NFL's Tampa Bay Buccaneers to hockey to baseball, as well as water sports, fishing, beachcombing, swimming and boating.

An hour's drive south is Sarasota, winter home to circus stars and minor league baseball, with a refurbished downtown that is worth spending time traversing on foot.

Another hour south you hit the Ft. Myers area, gateway to Sanibel and Captiva islands and such scenic wonders as the "Ding" Darling Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel.

In Ft. Myers itself, one of the major attractions is Thomas Edison's winter home, complete with laboratory, home and museum right on the main McGregor Boulevard thoroughfare. And make a point of having dinner at one of the restaurants along the Caloosahatchie River where sunsets are breathtaking.

One more hour and you're in Naples, second fastest growing metro area in the nation (Las vegas is No. 1). Upscale housing, dining, hotels and shops are the norm there.

Beyond this, you're in 'gator country. You can head easterly toward Daytona, Ft. Lauderdale and Miami, or even further south to the Keys. But, literally millions of people don't feel the need to keep going. They make the meandering Gulf Coast of Florida their home or destination.

ON THE WEB

• Tampa Bay Area Start Page
• Tampa Bay Convention & Visitors Bureau
• Tampa Cam (updated every 5 mins.)
• Florida Info
• Gulf Coast fishing guide
• Tarpon Springs
• Clearwater/Clearwater Beach
• Sarasota
• Fort Myers/Cape Coral
• Sanibel & Captiva islands

Times Are Tough In Bunker Hill

BUNKER HILL, W. VA -- Here along the western edge of the Shenandoah Valley, a lengthy drought and an infestation of that insect horde known as the 17- year locusts have conspired to cut into the pocketbook.

The backyard garden patches that usually help sustain many families living on the edge of a shaky economy and help bring in a few extra dollars from makeshift roadside produce stands have been alternately baked and defoliated. So the resilient folks of the West Virginia panhandle have turned to other ways of making money.

The resurgence in domestic tourism that began when foreign terrorists knocked down the Twin Towers in New York has helped. Along U.S. Route 11 -- a road that runs from the Canadian border to the Gulf of Mexico and was part of Main Street U.S.A. before the interstate highway system was born -- the signs of transient dollars abound.

Heading northeast up through Front Royal, Middletown and Winchester, Va., then across the state line to this hamlet and neighboring Darksey, Leetown and Inwood, the signs of ingenuity are everywhere -- stands peddling fireworks just before you cross from Virginia, where they're legal, into West Virginia, where they're not; craft shops; RV shops; fast-food stands; Civil War souvenir stands -- and the everpresent yard sales.

To someone from the Northeast interested in "antiques" and odd, old pieces of furnishings, those yard sales look like the promised land. Back home, it long ago became impossible to find a bargain, what with everyone jacking prices up unmercifully to take advantage of the New York City types who haunt the upstate Albany/Saratoga area and New England and think the inflated prices charged for such quaint country items are a steal.

Pulling the car off the road behind a pickup truck so the New York license plate didn't tip off the amateur vendors, we stopped at one likely looking sale. A grouping of wooden furniture and a stack of dishes had caught our collective eye.

One piece in particular triggered a flood of memories. It was a smoking stand, the sort many of us had in our homes 30 years or more ago -- a boxy stand on four slim legs, with brass-plated ashtray, pipe- and match-holders on top, and a drawer that opened to provide space for pipe tobacco and other smoking equipment.

Pieces that remain in good condition are hard to find. We had seen some in our home area -- the kind cranked out at one time in the Bennington, Vt., area, and throughout New York's Hudson Valley where I live, but they were overpriced at $40 or so. This one looked like a bargain.

"I sure hate to part with it," the woman said. "It belonged to my granddaddy, and he used it right up to the day he died in our house. But times are tough, and we just had to sell our house and move into a trailer behind my uncle's place, so a lot of our stuff has gotta go."

We expressed appropriate sympathy, then asked how much for the stand.

"Well, it's hard to put a price on something like that. It's been around my whole life. Probably made down here in the Valley. Most of the good ones were. But I guess I could let it go for $35."

Tempting, but not good enough.

"Well, it is gettin' late, and maybe nobody else'll come by today that wants it. How about $25?"
Still tempting, but still not good enough. How about $15?

"You're tough, but we need the money, so ... well, OK. But take good care of it. It was my granddaddy's."

Three 5's and a smoking stand changed hands.

We looked at the stack of dishes that would have rounded out a collection of mismatched but unusual pieces we had for casual use at home. The prices were low and the hard-to-find dishes were selling fast. This would be a one-time-only chance.

The problem: the trunk of the car was so packed with vacation-travel paraphernalia that space was at a premium. It was the stand or the dishes. My computer-like logic analyzed the problem: a Shenandoah Valley smoking stand was worth $75 to $100 compared to the $40 value of one made up north near home. I'd paid $15. The smoking stand won the last spot in the trunk.

Days later, back home in Upstate New York, I was cleaning up the stand and reveling in my good fortune. Missing out on the dishes was a disappointment, but a genuine Shenandoah Valley smoking stand was great consolation. Just one more bit of grime to rub off the bottom ... What was this? A sticker that read: "A Cushman Furniture product, N. Bennington, Vt." -- a 20-minute drive from my house.

Estimated value: $15-$25 dollars.

Maybe the woman did spot the New York license plate after all.

ON THE WEB
• Yard Sale Queen
• Yard Saling
• 15 tips for a successful yard sale

Vacation Planning Offices, By State

• Dial 1-800 before any phone number unless otherwise an area code precedes it.

Alabama
252-2262

Alaska
(907) 465-2010

Arizona
842-8257

Arkansas
628-8725

California
862-2543

Colorado
265-6723

Connecticut
282-6863

Delaware
441-8846

District of Columbia
(202) 789-7000

Florida
(904) 487-1462

Georgia
847-4842

Hawaii
464-2924

Idaho
835-7820

Illinois
223-0121

Indiana
289-6646

Iowa
345-4692

Kansas
252-6727

Kentucky
225-8747

Louisiana
334-8626

Maine
533-9595

Maryland
543-1036

Massachusetts
447-6277

Michigan
543-2937

Minnesota
657-3700

Mississippi
927-6378

Missouri
877-1234

Montana
541-1447

Nebraska
228-4307

Nevada
638-2328

New Hampshire
386-4664

New Jersey
537-7397

New Mexico
545-2040

New York
225-5697

North Carolina
847-4862

North Dakota
435-5663

Ohio
282-5393

Oklahoma
652-6552

Oregon
547-7842

Pennsylvania
847-4872

Rhode Island
556-2484

South Carolina
346-3634

South Dakota
732-5682

Tennessee
836-6200

Texas
452-9292

Utah
538-1030

Vermont
837-6668

Virginia
847-4882

Washington
544-1800

West Virginia
225-5982

Wisconsin
432-8747

Wyoming
225-5996

Tales From the Travel Agents

Travel agents get some very strange requests. Here is a compilation of them that is making the Internet rounds lately.

We can't personally vouch for their authenticity, but the agents who contributed them do. Read and smile, or weep:

• I had someone ask for an aisle seat so her hair wouldn't get messed up from being near the window.

• A client called in inquiring about a package to Hawaii. After going over all the cost info, she asked, "Would it be cheaper to fly to California and then take the train to Hawaii?"

• I got a call from a woman who said she wanted to go to Capetown. I started to explain the length of the flight and the passport information when she interrupted me with, "I'm not trying to make you look stupid, but Capetown is in Massachusetts." Without trying to make her look like the stupid one, I calmly explained, "Cape Cod is in Massachusetts. Capetown is in South Africa." Her response: Click.

• A man called, furious about a Florida package we did. I asked what was wrong with the vacation in Orlando. He said he was expecting an ocean-view room. I tried to explain that is not possible because Orlando is in the middle of the state. He replied, "Don't lie to me. I looked on the map and Florida is a very thin state."

• I got a call from a man who asked, "Is it possible to see England from Canada?" I said, "No." He said, "But, they look so close on the map."

• A nice lady just called. She needed to know how it was possible that her flight from Detroit left at 8:20a.m. and got into Chicago at 8:33 a.m. I tried to explain that Michigan was an hour ahead of Illinois, but she could not understand the concept of time zones. Finally, I told her the plane went very fast. She bought that.

• A woman called and asked, "Do airlines put your physical description on your bag so they know whose luggage belongs to who?" I said, "No, why do you ask?" She replied, "Well, when I checked in with the airline, they put a tag on my luggage that said FAT, and I'm overweight. Is there any connection?" After putting her on hold for a minute while I looked into it (I actually was laughing) I came back and explained that the city code for Fresno, CA, is FAT, and that the airline was just putting a destination tag on her luggage.

• I just got off the phone with a man who asked, "How do I know which plane to get on?" I asked him what exactly he meant, which he replied, "I was told my flight number is 823, but none of these darn planes have numbers on them."

• A businessman called and had a question about the documents he needed to fly to China. After a lengthy discussion about passports, I reminded him he needed a visa. "Oh, no I don't. I've been to China many times and never had to have one of those." I double-checked and sure enough, his stay required a visa. When I told him this he said, "Look, I've been to China four times and every time they have accepted my American Express."

Do you have any offbeat travel tales to share? Feel free to e-mail them to Taste for Travel.

Erlowest brings back Adirondack splendor

LAKE GEORGE, NY -- The topography around Lake George masks as much as it reveals.

Once past the fetching garishness of Lake George Village heading toward Bolton Landing on Route 9N -- the winding, tree-lined road locally known as Lake Shore Drive, you'll find a hodgepodge of log cabin guest colonies, Adirondack-style lodges and private homes existing cheek-by-jowl.

They are the obvious. But down the hills that slope to the exquisite lake are several former mansions converted over the years to guest lodging. As a group they once were referred to as Millionaire's Row, the dominant structures on the shores of Lake George.

Take the Queen Anne-style stone structure built in 1898 for Brooklyn lawyer Edward Morse Shepard as a lakeside vacation retreat. Once patrons navigate down a steep, winding drive, the formerly hidden three-story edifice looms into view.

This is the Inn at Erlowest.

It has gone by various names bestowed by various owners -- Erlowest, Leffingwell Palace, Sunset Castle and back to Erlowest when it came under the ownership of David and Cheryl Kenny last summer.

There are many gems here, from rolling lawns to a lakeview veranda to a library-style bar and four dining rooms.

Those rooms are studies in elegance -- coffered ceilings, rich draperies, small avian sculptures on the casement window sills and sparkling Spiegelau glassware on the tables.

But it is what goes on in the kitchen under chef Matthew Secich that makes Erlowest a wonder.

Secich is an eclectic Ohioan whose background includes time as a college lacrosse player and a U.S. Army cavalry scout as well as a student and a chef at various stops in the United States, France and England. Don't try to pigeonhole his style. He works on whim and the availability of local food supplies.

"In the kitchen,'' he says, "we use no recipes. I draw a picture and we create a new dish.''

There are several ways of seeing those creations: two separate seven-course tasting menus ($79 per person) and an a la carte list, all of which change daily, or a special session in The Chef's Table Room adjacent to the kitchen where Secich gives vent to his creative flow through 8 to 12 courses ($129 per person).

Constant Companion and I had selected the vegetable tasting menu (the a la carte menu and the grand tasting include meat and fish items), with a $55 wine pairing option.

Erlowest's 264-label wine list contains a wide selection that runs the gamut in price and vintage from a 1961 Chateau Margaux ($2,770) to a 2002 Houchart Cotes de Provence ($20). Between those extremes are nearly 100 labels priced below $100.

Even though tastings allow for only small amounts of wine, in this case the add-on is worth the experience. Chef Secich and his staff have done an exemplary job in marrying their produce with excellent vintages.

After an amuse bouche of julienned Gorgonzola and apple and diced shallot, we were on to the seven tiny tastings, each exquisitely arranged on different shaped platters and serving pieces, each with a taste of its own wine.

A velvety chilled pea soup was dotted with a small scoop of chocolate mint ice cream -- not the ice cream store flavoring, but the chocolate mint herb -- and paired with a cleansing, nonvintage Gaston-Chiquet brut champagne. Vegetables a la Provencal avoided the cliche tomato-garlic=oregano combination, thanks to the inclusion of licorice-like fennel and a taste of a sweet 2003 Domaine Pastou Sancerre from France's Loire Valley. Our third course was an elegant arrangement of miniscule wild strawberries and reed-slender wild asparagus shoots with a balsamic drizzle, abetted by a crisp 2003 Olivier Leflaive St. Aubin 1er Cru white Burgundy.

The second portion of the meal was heartier, with rich, full-bodied wines that would go just as well with meat dishes. A quartet of fingerling potatoes was roasted in salt, split and stuffed with Reblochon -- a French cheese made from whole, unpasteurized milk -- then dabbed with wilted spinach. It was paired with a 2000 La Braccesca Montepulciano, carrying red fruit and licorice notes. Then came a trio of savory mushroom mixes that obviated any need for meat, the tender chanterelles, trumpet royals and mousserons paired with an inky-red Mas de Gourgonnier Reserve Les Baux de Provence, powerful with black cherry notes.

A cleansing finish came from two elements: a salad of spring baby lettuces with Blue Ledge chevre and a vaguely, but pleasingly, astringent 2001 Domaine Jean-Luc Dubois Clos Margot white Burgundy; then, a strawberry soup dotted with a touch of fiddlehead fern ice cream and joined by a 2003 La Spinetta Moscato d'Asti, a low-alcohol little bubbly that completed the beverage circle.

Secich is a clever kitchen artist with a young staff who may not know it, but they are getting the training of a lifetime.

---

ON THE WEB
• Lake George views
• Lake George information
• Lake George Opera
• Lake George Village
• Lake George Winter Carnival
• Lake George fishing
• Americade motorcycle event
• Adirondack Chamber of Commerce

An Air of Humor In Plane Sight

Those faceless folks who keep commercial and military planes aloft are more than just guys with tools. They also have a sense of humor that shows up in their service logs.

Here is a sampling that is making the rounds on the Internet these days. "p" stands for the problem logged by the pilot. "S" stands for the service tech's response,

P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement.
S: Almost replaced left inside main tire.

P: Test flight OK, except autoland very rough.
S: Autoland not installed on this aircraft.

P: Something loose in cockpit.
S: Something tightened in cockpit.

P: Dead bugs on windshield.
S: Live bugs on back-order.

P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 fpm descent.
S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.

P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
S: Evidence removed.

P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
S: DME volume set to more believable level.

P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
S: That's what they're there for.

P: IFF inoperative.
S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.

P: Suspected crack in windshield.
S: Suspect you're right.

P: Number 3 engine missing.
S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.

P: Aircraft handles funny.
S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be serious.

P: Target radar hums.
S: Reprogrammed target radar with words.

P: Mouse in cockpit.
S: Cat installed.

A New England dining guide

April L. Dowd photo

How do you cover the dining possibilities in a six-state region such as New England without writing a book about it? The answer is, you don't.

What we have here, instead, is a quick-hit look at a variety of restaurants that offer hungry travelers a localized change-of-pace from the boring sameness of highway-chain food.

Bear in mind, New England is home to four of the eight Ivy League colleges, which act as restaurant magnets, even in what may be otherwise low-desirability neighborhoods.

Massachusetts

The Commonwealth stretches from the Berkshire mountains in the west to Cape Cod in the far east. An example of the best in the west is Bistro Zinc (56 Church St., Lenox, 413/637-8800). This trendy upscale French bistro, on a side street off Historic 7A, makes bold use of metals and woods in its decor. The zinc-topped bar offers a nice array of single barrel bourbons and single malt scotches plus a strong wine list.

Cape Cod has many, many spots to be recommended. Ebb Tide (94 Chase Ave., Dennisport, 508/398-8733) is just one example, located mid-Cape in a onetime sea captain's house a block off Nantucket Sound. The menu emphasizes locally caught seafood and traditional New England cuisine. (For a more detailed look at the region's top tourist draw, see our 2005 Cape Cod Dining Guide.)

Of course, you can't talk about food in Massachusetts without at least touching on the Boston metro center, which includes Harvard. A couple of hot new spots: The original Ritz-Carlton hotel (Boston Common, 800/241-3333) just finished a $65 million renovation and its already-famous dining room sparkles again; the Craigie Street Bistro (Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617/497-5511) has been opened by chef-owner Tony Maws who piled up top reviews at Clio before going on his own.

Vermont

The Green Mountain State likes to emphasize its Yankee simplicity, but for such a small, sparsely populated state, it has an inordinate numbers of restaurants holding Wine Spectator magazine Awards of Excellence: Bistro Henry, the Colonnade Room at The Equinox, and Mistral's at Toll Gate, all in Manchester Center; Opaline, Smokejack's and Trattoria Delia in Burlington, and The Hermitage Inn in Wilmington.

Unusual scenic dining spots abound elsewhere, such as the Four Chimneys (Route 7, Old Bennington, 802/447-3500), named for the towering stacks visible from afar. It's a white, 18th century mansion-like structure set in a heavily treed plot in the undulating landscape. Or, Garlic John's (near Manchester Center, 802/362-9843), just outside the community that masquerades as a shopping center. If you've ever wanted to dine on Italian while counting how many empty wine bottles can be suspended from a ceiling, this is the place.

Rhode Island

If you tend not to expect much from the nation's tiniest state, think again. In the capital city of Providence alone (home to Brown University) there are enough good restaurants to draw tourists from everywhere, often staffed by graduates of the prestigious Johnson & Wales University culinary program.

Seafood spots are numerous along the southern seacoast in Newport and Narragansett, for example, but make a point of checking out Federal Hill, the "Little Italy" of Providence that is home to numerous trattoria. Among the top-rated spots in town: L'Epicureo (238 Atwells Ave. 401/454-8431), a hot ticket ever since Esquire magazine praised it nearly a decade ago; Angelo's Civita Farnese (142 Atwells Ave. 401/621-8171), which has been around for nearly 80 years, qualifying it for icon status; and, Al Forno (577 South Main St. in Fox Point), one of the first local spots to earn a national reputation.

Maine

Any state with 3,500 miles of coastline has to be replete with seafood restaurants. But, stay loose in your choices statewide. Bangor, the state capitol, and the University of Maine's hometown of Orono hold the usual range of small-city restaurants, but from the greater Portland area south to the New Hampshire state line, for example, the Atlantic coast is lined with quaint towns and even quainter dining spots.

In Portland itself, Boone's Restaurant on Custom House Wharf (207/774-5725) is quintessential Yankee seafood. The exotic is available at the Afghan Restaurant (419 Congress St., 207/773-3431), whose name describes its offerings, and the flannel-shirt atmosphere is much of the charm of the Stonecoast Brewery (14 York St., 207/773- 2337) and its trio of 9-foot pool tables. Down the coast in Kennebunkport, that favorite haunt of politicians, Bartley's Dockside Dining (207/967-5050), serves up an extravaganza called the Presidential Clambake. Just south of there, in Ogunquit, the beautifully landscaped Barnacle Billy's (Perkins Cove, 207/646-5575) is always a good draw.

New Hampshire

As one might surmise, a sparsely populated state tends to have its best dining clustered in just a few spots. The presence of Dartmouth College in Hanover and the tourist draw of nearby Lake Sunapee is a magnet for numerous ethnic spots and coffee houses.

The Granite State seacoast is a lifeline for unusual restaurants, such as in trendy Portsmouth (Chestnuts at the Nest, 603/373- 6515, with its glass-topped bar and its wild game mixed grill) and Hampton (Galley Hatch, 325 Lafayette Road, 603/926-6152, with its own Seasons Bakery and a long list of $4.95 ice cream specialty drinks).

Connecticut

Hartford is the Nutmeg State's largest city, but New Haven is home to Yale and that is a restaurant magnet. In Wooster Square (New Haven's "Little Italy"), there's an endless battle over whether the American pizza was invented at Frank Pepe's (203/865-5762) or Sally's (203/624-5271). The Town Green district is loaded with all sorts of restaurants, such as Galileo's Restaurant at the Omni hotel (155 Temple St., 203/974-6859) with views of the green and of Long Island Sound.

In Hartford, the Bushnell Park area is a prized location, and Vito's By the Park (26 Trumbull St., 860/244-2200) not only has a park view, it has a large indoor mural of the park.

Diverse Hartford is loaded with ethnic neighborhood restaurants. For example, near Trinity College in the Park Street area, the heart of the Latino community, you'll find numerous food vendors in El Mercado, an indoor market that's the neighborhood's crown jewel. It's a perfect spot for visitors unfamiliar with the city's neighborhoods to experience the cuisine.

A Cape Cod dining guide

April L. Dowd photo

CAPE COD, MA -- In this eclectic place we call America, it isn't difficult to find a huge variety of dining choices along the highways and byways and even in the highrises that overlook them.

But, boil down the geography to the tourist haven we call Cape Cod and choices are largely confined to just three main roads.

The Cape, 75 miles long from the Cape Cod Canal in the west to Herring Cove Beach in the northeast, is shaped like the upraised arm of someone "making a muscle.'' It is traversed largely on Routes 6, 6A and 28. Once you're off them you'd better know the local layout intimately to avoid being caught hungry in the many culs-de-sac and roads that dead-end at salt marshes or ponds.

In past years, our "Cape Cod Dining Guide'' centered on various aspects of the food scene. This eighth annual version celebrates its eclecticism. (For a broader look at the region, see our 2005 New England Dining Guide.)

The annual caveat: I don't work for the Chamnber of Commerce. The guide is guaranteed to lead you to some pleasant experiences as well as guaranteed to annoy anyone whose favorite spot isn't mentioned. However, with literally hundreds of places to eat, totality is impossible.

Logistically, since Route 6 -- the Mid-Cape Highway -- is a limited access thoroughfare until you get past Orleans and head north, the principal dining clusters are mostly on Routes 28 and 6A.

A four-mile stretch of Route 28 from the edge of Hyannis, the Cape's largest town, east to West Dennis on the Bass River is a prime example of how packed with dining variety the Cape's main roads can be.

At least 40 food-related spots are jammed into that span, from the brand-new Oinky & Moo's southern barbecue (think about it) in West Dennis to the self-explanatory old Riverway Lobster House in Yarmouth.

This is a good base of operations for families who like very casual, inexpensive food plus proximity to inexpensive motels and elaborate miniature golf layouts, or for couples who need the nightlife. You never have to leave the locale to experience an astounding variety of foods: Irish pub, seafood, Thai, hot dogs and ice cream, soups and salads, Chinese, brunches, Mexican, Polynesian, pizza and the inevitable Dairy Queen, McDonald's and Dunkin Donuts spots and more.

One of the most popular establishments is Sundowner's, a pleasantly raucous bar and restaurant in West Dennis with an atmosphere that seems provided by Jimmy Buffet -- rough-hewn wood walls, waitresses and bartenderesses (a noticeable dearth of male waitstaff) wearing wild tropical-print blouses, a deck with a water view, frequent live music from pop to reggae, inexpensive and tasty food (they offer a shockingly good New York strip steak as well as the usual clams and shrimp).

The drinks are fine if you limit yourself to beers or frothy blender products, not so fine if you want expertly mixed cocktails. But, how can you dislike a place that offers a weekly "karaoke gong show''?

In nearby West Yarmouth, Molly's offers a traditional Irish breakfast (thick Irish bacon, sausage, black and white pudding, eggs, tomatos, beans and home fries) for a paltry $8.50. I still think of the tiny slip of a girl I saw easily polish one off while her boyfriend toyed with a regular-sized ham and eggs.

Then there is a neighborhood spot called Kevin's Seafood & Spirits. Blink and you'll miss it. A sign on the weathered exterior proclaims "Finest Fish 'n Chips On the Cape.'' Such bragging is commonplace on the Cape, but Kevin's (no credit cards, please) walks the walk with its delicate, tasty platter.

You'll find a lot more upscale dining as well as some great breakfast spots in Hyannis.

One example: Persey's Place, several blocks east of the Kennedy Museum. It serves what it boasts is "New England's Largest Breakfast Menu'' from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Recommended: such delightful oddities as hash Benedict, chocolate chip/banana/walnut pancakes and an array of omelets.

Start your day there, take a ferry from Hyannis Harbor over to Nantucket or Martha's Vineyard, then come back in the early evening and have dinner in the cool pub atmosphere of the British Beer Company on Main Street. (It has sister locations in Sandwich and Falmouth.) Better still, try Alberto's Ristorante, also on Main. It offers sidewalk dining or white tablecloth tables inside behind frosted glass room dividers.

The clientele is eclectic (I marveled to my companion about how clever the little child at the next table was, what with her command of French, before realizing it was a French-speaking family), and the Northern Italian food is top-shelf. Particular treats: a salad of white cannelini beans, mixed greens, onions, capers, calamata olives and roasted peppers; a battered veal cutlet stuffed with prosciutto and a mixture of five cheeses, served in a lemon/butter/wine sauce.

Good as this all is, along with such other lasting treats as the elegant Dan'l Webster Inn in Sandwich and The Red Pheasant in Dennis near the Cape Cod Playhouse and the Cape Cod Museum of Art, we can't forget the Outer Cape, from Orleans at the elbow to Provincetown at the fist.

A longtime favorite had been Aesop's Tables, located in the heart of Wellfleet village off Cape Cod Bay where we met each year with another couple for a shared anniversary dinner. Since our last visit it had been purchased by the owners of Moby Dick's, a lobster-and-clam shack on Route 6 usually packed with people who like a rough-hewn place that also sells plastic float toys and faux buoys as souvenirs.

Aesop's has become Winslow's Tavern. A sign proclaims it was established in 2005, a whimsical thumbing of the nose to competitors who brag too much about their lineage. The 1800s Victorian mansion once had the feel of a European country tavern. Now, the food is a bit better, the drinks a little less impotent, but annual regulars like us might find it too fresh and antiseptically pretty.

The remainder of the Outer Cape remains largely the same as before. The lineup is variety personified. Some examples:

On the elbow way down in wealthy Chatham is the Wayside Inn, a restored structure located next to Kate Gould Park where the town's brass band offers concerts every Friday night in the summer. Try their "short stack.'' No, not pancakes; grilled medallions of swordfish and filet mignon with spinach and carmelized onions, stacked on mashed potatoes with two sauces.

The elegant 130-year-old Orleans Inn on Town Cove in Orleans, where the Cape begins bending upward, still has both casual and fine dining with water views from virtually every seat.

The Sea Dog on Route 6 in Eastham, where they usually roll up the sidewalks at 9 p.m. (except down the road at the always-buzzing Ben & Jerry's store which stays open till 11), has a good steakhouse menu plus live entertainment and a good late-night bar menu.

The most popular spots, and arguably the best, on Route 6 between Eastham and P-town are in South Wellfleet. They are Van Rensselaer's, whose stuffed baked lobster is a consistent popularity poll winner, and Serena's, an Italian family spot that fills up almost as soon as the doors open each evening.

Once in P-town, you'll find wall-to-wall eateries that are OK but rarely much different from one another except for the quality of water views. (That doesn't include the iconic Portugese Bakery and its grab-and-go toothsome treats). A pleasant exception is Ciro & Sal's on hidden Kiley Court where they serve Northern Italian cuisine in an intimate grotto/garden setting. And, there you have it. A long list, although hardly all-inclusive. I take comfort in the fact that there's enough meat here to feed you for even a very long stay.

Boutique Bottlers Dot the Country

For many people, smaller is better when it comes to innovation in spirit-making.

The boutique liquor business is catching on all across the nation. The latest clear spirit is being distilled up in Maine, and the American version of Europe's eau de vie brandies is gobbling up all sorts of homegrown fresh fruits in many states.

While the giant spirits conglomerates and distributors such as Allied Domecq, Diageo and Brown Forman battle each other for the lion's share of the market, the less obtrusive mammals are carving out successful little niches of their own.

For the past five years, a Long Island company has been using local potatoes and Midwest grain to create Peconika vodka. Up in Minnesota, Shakers Original American Vodka, a grain alcohol produced in the town of Benson since the beginning of the year, already is the best-selling vodka in the state.

Not that the niche operators are restricting themselves to hard liquor. In various parts of the nation, lighter alcoholic beverages are being produced. Two quick examples:

In Jacksonville, Vt., the North River Winery (pictured above) operation makes 11 different fruit wines, many of them certified organic. The operation has grown from a mere 2,500 gallons a year in 1985 to 20,000 gallons today. In Richmond, Mass., not far from the historic Hancock Shaker Village tourist attraction, John Vittori is putting out his own line of wines made from grapes trucked up from Long Island, NY, as well as a line of sweet and hard ciders from his own apples at the Hilltop Orchards/Furnace Brook Winery operation.

Meanwhile, back on the liquor trail, potato farmer Don Thibodeau is cranking out the spuds on his Green Thumb Farms near Freeport, Maine, to fuel creation of a boutique vodka product due on the market next spring.

Thibodeau's vodka, says the Associated Press, will be produced in small batches from his 525-acre spread and, if need be, from potatoes grown elsewhere in the state. The operation will be Maine's first commercial distillery. White Rock Distilleries in Lewiston makes spirits, but its alcohol is imported.

Thibodeau's product will be aimed at the high-priced "super premium" niche with the likes of Belvedere, Chopin and Grey Goose. A name has been chosen for the new product, but is being kept secret for now.

Grey Moose, anyone?

Beyond vodka, the brandies or brandy-like spirits are on the rise, led by the work of master craftsman Jorg Rupf. He makes Hangar One viognier grape vodka and various fruit brandies in a former aircraft plant in Alameda, Calif.

There are more than 50 such small operations in 16 states using nearly any kind of fruit or organic matter to create vodkas and eau de vie (water of life) brandies -- places such as Westford Hill Distillers in Connecticut, Clear Creek in Oregon and Bonny Doon in California.

The reasons people get into a business that is hard to promote outside one's immediate area are numerous.

Steve McCarthy, for instance, tells the Bloomberg News Service he was inspired by the palate-cleansing bite and enticing fragrance of eaux de vie he'd tasted at business dinners in Europe. So, in 1985, he began distilling fruit from his family's Oregon pear orchard. "The market didn't know eau de vie from eau de toilette," McCarthy told the news service. The market knows it now. He distills 8,000 gallons a year of a dozen aromatic spirits for his Clear Creek line, known particularly for its apple brandy.

California grape grower Ansley Coale met vacationing Hubert Germain-Robin, offspring of a French cognac-making family, and struck up a partnership that has resulted in a pricey, cognac-style brandy made from pinot noir grapes (Germain-Robin Select Barrel XO, $100; Anno Domini, $350).

Reno: Not Just Vegas' Little Sister

RENO, Nev. -- Just over a decade ago, this northern Nevada community that has long billed itself as "The Biggest Little City in the World" had a seedy reputation.

It had a stagnant economy, a deteriorating business sector and few job possibilities.

Since then, however, an ambitious downtown renovation ($37 million for street repairs alone), an expansion campaign at the University of Nevada at Reno campus, a housing boom fueled by the state's burgeoning population, a new art museum and a thriving casino and resort community have helped change all that.

Last summer, in fact, the city placed No. 3 on Men's Journal magazine's list of the nation's 50 best places to live, and it broke into the top 10 (at No. 9) on Hotels.com's list of most-requested locales for lodging reservations.

All this is coalescing in a city that only two years ago marked the centennial celebration of its incorporation as a city.

Riches to rags and back to riches in just 100 years.

Need more evidence of the Reno boom? The city also is ranked No. 7 in Inc. Magazine's "Best City in Which to Start and Grow a Business." And this community named for a Civil War general moved up an incredible 23 places from last year to No. 22 nationally on the annual Forbes/Milken Institute ranking of "Best Places for Business and Careers."

Another of Reno's smart moves is being neither foolishly dependent on gambling nor stubbornly independent in marketing itself. Depending on which public relations campaign you pay attention to, the area is referred to as Reno-Tahoe or Reno-Sparks, Sparks being an adjoining residential and casino town that shares convention facilities with Reno.

The Tahoe reference takes advantage of Reno's proximity to Lake Tahoe, the year-round mountain resort mecca that straddles the California-Nevada line just 40 miles from Reno.

A Tahoe connection also goes a long way toward reinforcing the point that Reno, unlike sweltering Las Vegas 340 miles to the south, is truly a four-season climate where it actually snows and temperatures fall into the single digits in winter.

In fact, taking advantage of the outdoors after generations of trying to keep people in the casinos can be seen in the form of a new 24-mile whitewater recreation corridor include a kayaking slalom course through downtown.

Does that annoy casino owners who like people at the slots and the tables as often as possible? It's doubtful. Harrah's and Eldorado together contributed $1 million toward the $22 million project, which startd last tsummer.

Comparisons between Reno and Las Vegas are inevitable because of the legal gambling attraction of both cities as well as Americans' legendary ignorance of geography. But the differences are many, not the least of which is the matter of proportion: Vegas' population is triple that of Reno's 138,000.

Vegas and surrounding Clark County have always been about gambling, ever since mobster Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel supported construction of The Flamingo in the 1940s and got the laid-back casino business really rolling. Washoe County up here in the north has long been and remains cowboy country, despite all the gambling dens. The city is virtually ringed with working ranches large and small. People wearing Stetsons and work clothes downtown or in the outlying malls isn't an affectation. Neither are the numerous pickup trucks, which actually are used for work.

The Reno skyline probably isn't what a first-time visitor, particularly one used to the glitz of Vegas, might expect.

The city sprawls in all directions, but towering casino hotels are few in number -- the 1,300-room Peppermill, the 600-room Atlantis and the 2,000-room Hilton among the most prominent.

In Vegas, the proliferation of gaudy casinos that sprang up on Las Vegas Boulevard drained the money away from its downtown. But Reno's downtown -- and its smaller buildings -- is still its main draw, as are its many wedding chapels, pawn shops and quick-cash car lots, a triumvirate of businesses that illustrates the gamut of love and luck.

Parking rates downtown are reasonable ($2 for a four-hour stay is common) and encourage walking tours, particularly on Virginia Street -- the main drag -- and nearby side streets.

The older, major casinos are tightly clustered, such immaculate places as Circus Circus, the Eldorado, and the Silver Legacy -- where a gorgeous collection of silver objects once owned by one of the region's silver mining barons is on permanent display in the ornate lobby.

You don't have to gamble at any of these spots to have fun. Periodic free entertainment is provided, the numerous buffets offer a wide range of food at cut-rate prices, concerts and art shows are frequent and the people watching is primo. Or you can stroll down to the National Bowling Stadium to watch the latest tournament.

Just south of the casino cluster is the Riverwalk, where concerts and art shows are common along the Truckee River, which bisects the city. Amble just a few blocks off Virginia Street and you can see one of two spectacular museums.

The Nevada Museum of Art's new facility opened on West Liberty Street in May with an exhibition of the renowned Mexican artist Diego Rivera and other 20th Century Mexican art.

Two blocks off Virginia, on Lake Street South hugging the river, is the National Auto Museum, also known as The Harrah Collection. The collection, the largest of classic cars and trucks in North America, is enough to make any car buff drool. From such examples of art and engineering as Ferraris, Corvettes and Pierce-Arrows, you can jump to some of the earliest American-made working vehicles and race cars.

A short drive, bus or cab ride to the university campus takes you to the Fleischmann Planetarium and Science Center, located on one of the ridges created by the local "bowl" topography.

Because of northern Nevada's low light pollution, the dark night sky makes it a stargazer's paradise. On clear Friday and Saturday nights throughout the year, visitors to the planetarium's public observatory can scan the skies through a C-14 telescope free of charge.

Of course, for the price of a ticket you can see a lot of other stars as well. George Carlin, Jeff Foxworthy, Jay Leno, Meat Loaf, Olivia Newton-John, Vince Gill and Willie Nelson are among the entertainment luminaries who have appeared in recent months.

ON THE WEB

• Reno - Lake Tahoe vacation guide
• Nearby Virginia City
• Official visitors' guide
• City of Reno official Web site

Alcohols of the Americas

National pride can be wrapped up in so many things. Science, food, sports, music. And then there is the spirit world.

Not the John Edward, talking-to-the-beyond-on-television kind of spirits, but the earthier ones found in amber bottles, cut-glass decanters and crystal tumblers.

Most countries point with pride to a "national drink." The French have champagne; the Greeks, ouzo; the Russians their vodka. They are not alone.

In the United Kingdom, for example, we readily find the single malts and gins of Scotland and England. Now even Wales, that forgotten little country that shares the British mainland with them, is getting back into the swing after being without a native distillery since 1894.

On March 1 this year, the 3-year-old Welsh Whisky Co. introduced its first product, Penderyn single-malt whiskey, created from barley malt and Welsh spring water. It retails for about $40.

The privately owned distillery, which operates in the Brecon Beacons National Park, revives a Welsh industry that had provided experienced whiskey makers who were among the founding fathers of the American bourbon industry. In Penderyn, the American link lives on. The whiskey is aged in Jack Daniels and Evan Williams bourbon casks shipped from the United States before being finished in Wales in rare Madeira barrels.

In the United States, we've long enjoyed "national" drinks brought to our shores from elsewhere in our hemisphere -- the rums of Jamaica and Puerto Rico, and the tequilas of Mexico, for example. Now, a trio of previously little-known alcohols from the Americas recently discovered by U.S. tourists is beginning to make inroads in our domestic market.

From Central America comes S Guaro, introduced in the United States just this year. It's made in Costa Rica from pure sugar cane with no additives.

Right now, S Guaro is essentially a California drink, with a marketing campaign by distributor S Spirits of Malibu that began by creating a word-of-mouth buzz by serving it at parties orbiting the Golden Globes, Grammy and Academy Awards shows.

The campaign is similar to one launched last year in the New York area by the distributor of Hpnotiq, a pale-blue French concoction of cognac, vodka and fruit juices. Movie premieres, nightclubs and celebrity parties in the city and in The Hamptons were successfully targeted, and the pale-blue drink quickly caught on.

"We're trying that grass-roots thing, too, before we try to go nationwide," said Shari F. Levanthal, marketing director for S Spirits. "Funny thing is that if you mix Hypnotiq and S Guaro, you get a great combination drink."

Guaro tastes more like a vodka than it does anything else, and its distributors recommend it as part of a mixed drink rather than straight.

On the Caribbean isle of St. Martin/Sint Maarten, the indigenous guavaberry that centuries ago was turned into liquor by the Amer-Indian people is today distilled into a unique "folk liqueur," even though the fragile berries are difficult to cultivate and harvest.

My first experience with guavaberry liqueur was a colada served in a Philipsburg hotel bar on the Dutch side of the island. It's a deceptively smooth drink, reminiscent of blackberries and dark cherries, sweet but not overly so, thanks to the slightly woody, spicy taste of the liquor.

Despite the name, the guavaberry (GWAH-va-BER-ry) has nothing to do with the guava fruit. The liqueur -- easily available online for $19.50 -- is made from oak-aged rum, cane sugar and the berries that grow wild in the warm hills in the center of the island.

Farther south, in Brazil, a form of brandy called cachaca (ka-CHASS-ah, Portuguese for firewater) has taken the South American nation by storm in the past few years. Odd that it took so long, considering it has been around since the 1500s.

Cachaca is distilled from unrefined sugar-cane juice fermented in a wood or copper container for three weeks, then boiled down three times to a concentrate, giving it a rumlike flavor. The more expensive versions are aged in wood casks that provide a caramel color and take the edge off the raw alcohol taste.

Brazil has some 4,000 brands of cachaca (Pirapora, Pitu and Velho Barreiro Gold among them, priced in the $24-to-$30 range), making it second only to beer among alcoholic drinks consumed there.

Like tequila, which moved from being a blue-collar drink to upscale status in Mexico and the United States in recent years, cachaca has taken the same path. It got an extra boost when bartenders at trendy tourist spots in the Brazilian metro areas of Rio de Janiero and Sao Paolo looking for something novel began using it as the basis for a line of cocktails.

The most popular is a simple one called the caipirinha. It's made by crushing slices of fresh lime in a glass, sprinkling sugar over them, filling the glass with chilled cachaca and popping in a few ice cubes.

Ah, what a hemisphere!

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ON THE WEB
• Dowd's Guides

A Night In a Shaker Village

HANCOCK, MA -- In most dining places, an invitation to step back in time means someone thought a Laura Ashley decor or a bunch of old bric-a-brac would create a certain mood.

Here at the Hancock Shaker Village, you literarally are treading historic boards.

The offering of a candlelight Shaker dinner and tour lured me to this
charming spot on Route 20 midway between New Lebanon, NY, and Pittsfield, MA, a half-hour drive east of Albany, New York's capital city.

The village was one of 18 established as religious communities by the
Shakers in eight states after the death in 1784 of sect founder Ann Lee, who is buried near the site of the present Albany International Airport.

At its apogee, this 2,000-acre community had about 250 members. The movement declined after the late 1800s, and the last Shakers left the village in 1960. (A group of less than a dozen Shakers still lives in the Sabbath Day Lake community in Maine.)

At that point, a group of local people purchased the community and its 21 remaining buildings. It now is run as a not-for-profit educational organization. The village itself has been designated a National Historic Landmark.

The candlelight dinner series, held throughout the summer and fall, is anything but an eat-and-run affair. Plan for a fascinating 3 1/2-hour session of talks that will take you into the lives of the Shakers at various stages of the movement, tours of different aspects of the village, a communal dinner in the Believers'  Dining Room, and a music program after dinner.

The round stone barn is often used as the icon for the village promotions, but the Brick Dwelling is the key structure, an impressive multi-storied one, built in 1830 to house nearly 100 Shaker brothers and sisters.

The celibate community kept the sexes separate but fully equal, and the dwelling duplicates nearly all living functions -- one side for women, the other for men in a fascinating mirror image architectural style. For the candlelight dinner, the sexes mix at the long tables, 16 to a table with four tables in the room; but, in Shaker days men sat on one side of the room, women on the other.

The food for these events is prepared by local specialty caterers and brought to the village for serving. The caterer's kitchen modifies some of the Shaker recipes for modern preferences as needed, but stays as true as possible to the originals.

The affair begins in the Meeting Room, sometimes called the chapel, of the Brick Dwelling with iced tea and  an orientationby the two guides -- one male, one female, of course. The group is split into two mixed groups for walking tours, then participants reassemble in the kitchen of the Brick Dwelling to chat about what they've seen, over iced tea or excellent hard cider from the West County Winery at at Pine Hill Orchards in nearby Colrain, MA.

The dinner menu, served family-style, varies each week. For my visit, it consisted of a light garden salad wirh a basic vinaigrette, followed by a peppery herb broth, robust with cilantro, dill, summer savory, oregano,  parsley, thyme and rosemary; and baskets of moist, yeasty bread accented by lemon zest.

The main course was Sister Clymena's Chicken Pie, accompanied by herbed rice, glazed carrots and green beans with dill weed. The chicken pie was a delight, although the serving size was skimpy -- tender chunks of breast meat and button mushroom slices in a tarragon-heavy cream sauce with a hint of brown sugar, all contained in a flaky crust.

Other weeks, the main item may be pot roast with cranberries, ham baked in cider, or roast lamb with ginger and cider. An alternative low-fat item is available if ordered in advance. The night I visited, it was a breaded, broiled chicken breast entree.

The meal finishes wirh slabs of dense honey cake topped with vanilla ice cream, and coffee or tea. That night, the coffee was a bit weak and not very hot. But, that is hardly enough to quibble about in the totality of a good meal.

After dinner, we returned to the Meeting Room -- once again segregated by gender -- to learn about the Shaker religious services and to hear a capella songs (the Shakers did not use musical instruments) and participate in a few activities with some visitors volunteering to execute Shaker dance steos under staff supervision.

I could have gone on for another hour.

ON THE WEB

• Our 2005 New England Dining Guide
• Our 2005 Cape Cod Dining Guide

'Time Share' In Paradise

April L. Dowd photo

PHILLIPSBURG, St. Maarten -- This 37-square-mile Caribbean island is the smallest land mass in the world shared by two sovereign powers. In this case, the Netherlands and France, and they've been sharing it for 350 years.

Sint Maarten, located 150 miles east-southeast of Puerto Rico, is a small volcanic part of the Leeward Islands, a mixture of independent island nations as well as land owned by the Dutch, the French and the British.

Although the terrain is much the same across the island -- Paradise Point, at an elevation of 1,400 feet, is a high volcanic peak in the central area, sloping down to sandy beach and settlement areas -- life is a bit different depending on which side you see.

The Dutch side is marked by a busy center of commerce  -- dominated by more than 80 jewelry shops and numerous duty-free enterprises -- particularly in the crowded business sector of the capital of Philipsburg. The French side is a bit more laid-back, shown by the daily open-air market on the town dock and fish mart (shown above) in the capital of Marigot, overseen on a steep hill by the old Fort St. Louis.

The airport -- Princess Juliana International, where you can only land and take off in daylight because there are no lights -- is on the French side. All the casinos are on the Dutch side, but the beaches are fairly well sprinkled around the island.

Cuisine ranges from resort hotel continental to fine French food (Grand Case is a small town on the French side considered one of the top dining spots in the Caribbean) to one of the many "lolos" -- outdoor barbecue spots that dot the countryside. And don't miss trying the native liquer, called guavaberry liquer. It's like a mild raspberry, and is often found in guavaberry coladas and has a comparatively low alcohol content.

As you check out these and other attractions, don't be concerned about the border. It's an open one, and the only real way you can tell when you cross from one side to the other is by seeing discrete little stone markers.

And if you don't speak French or Dutch, no problem. English is spoken by virtually everyone. If you want to practice any other language it's not at all uncomon for shopkeepers, hotel staff and the like to nimbly jump from one language to another -- sometimes in mid-sentence -- as the need arises.

Severe hurricane damage several years destroyed or damaged many buildings and eradicated much mature plant growth. In recent years, the island has been battling to regain its share of the Caribbean tourist trade, so bargain packages are plentiful. And for convenience's sake, the U.S. dollar is the preferred currency everywhere.

Day trips to nearby islands are popular: St. Bart's, Anguilla, Saba, Ilet Pinel and Caye Verte, the latter two particularly attractive to snorkelers. But if your tastes run more to land activities -- say, golf -- you have only one choice: the 18-hole course at Mullet Bay.

The island abounds with typically tropical beaches as well as bustling shopping areas. Above, a view of Marigault, the capital of the French side, and at left a shot of its main street. Below left, the shop-lined main drag in Phillipsburg, capital of the Dutch side.

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ON THE WEB
• Island Hopping Guide
• French Caribbean International
• Friendly Caribbean
• Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel
• Official St. Maarten Home Page
• St. Martin Weather Forecast
• The daily newspaper
• Hospitality & Trade Association
• Special travel guide
• Restaurant Guide

Buffalo: New York's Midwest Gateway

BUFFALO, NY -- This place some call the Queen City is somewhat isolated from the rest of Upstate New York, but its location between two of the five Great Lakes makes it a unique place.

Most of America knows it as the home of horrendous blizzards and the Buffalo Bills.

There's a lot more.

People in other parts of the state often jokingly say Buffalo, well west of the other upstate metro areas, actually is part of the Midwest; or, at least, New York's Gateway to the Midwest.

The city sits on the eastern shore of Lake Erie, with Niagara Falls just above it, and the Canadian border just to the northwest. A bit to the northeast is Lake Ontario. With all this water in the area, maritime activities abound: boating, fishing, water skiing, diving -- and, of course, all the frozen-water pursuits in winter, such as ice boating, skating and the like.

Buffalo and environs also is a center for academic and medical institutions, as well as all the usual arts and cultural amenities common to cities of size.

Of course, it wouldn't be fair to ignore the Bills -- or the National Hockey League's Sabres, or the University of Buffalo, Canisius College, Buffalo State and other sports teams, along with such athletic facilities as the Bills' Rich Stadium in suburban Orchard Park or the Marine Midland Arena in the city.

Buffalo also is known for its museums and science centers. The Albright-Knox Art Gallery, for example, is known for its collections and touring exhibits of modern art. Pictured above, at its Collectors Gallery -- where customers have the opportunity to view, rent, or buy original works of art -- is "Sliear Lhean (Witches Hil), acrylic on canvas by Jane Callister.

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ON THE WEB
• Albright-Knox Art Gallery
• Roger Tory Peterson Institute of Natural History
• Buffalo Restaurant Guide
• Lucy-Desi Mueaum, in nearby Jamestown, home of Lucille Ball
• University of Buffalo
• Dowd's Guides

New York's Thruway Cosmopolis

Upstate New York is dominated by a quartet of metropolitan areas connected by the New York State Thruway and a series of suburban and rural regions between each.

From the capital city of Albany at the northernmost point of the Thruway, the route runs west to Syracuse, then Rochester, then Buffalo at the edge of Lake Erie and Niagara Falls.

Check here for the best information and links to each area.

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ON THE WEB
• The Capital Region
• Syracuse
• Rochester
• Buffalo/Niagara Falls

Island In the Slum

William M. Dowd photo

KINGSTON, JAMAICA -- This Caribbean island, fabled in swashbuckling tales and rhythm-accented music, has a long and storied history since the advent of European contact shortly after Columbus' late  15th Century voyages of exploration.

Much of its history is violent -- from the oppressive slavery of indigenous people forced to work on sprawling sugar plantations to today's high rates of crime and violence, even in the capital city of Kingston. Visitors to the famous plantation mansion Rosehall (above) can see the lair of one of the most oppressive and powerful female landowners of colonial days.

The 1999 and 2000 gasoline price riots remain a fresh memory and poverty, inflation and unemployment continue unabated. Armed guards are common sights in front of many businesses; travelers are advised to travel in sizeable groups and preferably only in daylight.

That said, and even though tourism has taken a marked dip in recent years, construction of new hotels continues and some of the more established retreats around Negril and Montego Bay have been refurbished and expanded. They offer all the expected tropical amenities, some including golf.

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ON THE WEB
• CIA World Factbook: Jamaica
• Dowd's Guides

Syracuse, much more than Orange

SYRACUSE, NY -- Few American communities are as connected to a color as this area is to orange.

The Orange of national collegiate sports power Syracuse University permeates the color palette of the region even though there is a lot more to it than football, basketball and lacrosse. The university itself is known for its Maxwell School of Business and Newhouse School of Communications as well as its undergraduate programs.

The community is home to numerous other colleges and professional schools (see the hot links listing on this page to visit them), museums and art galleries, as well as boating, fishing, camping and other outdoor recreational activities -- particularly in nearby wooded and lake areas. The Oswego area is one such hotspot.

The city of Syracuse also has a history of cultural activities, perhaps most famous among them being Syracuse Stage, a prominent "out of town" tryout spot for new productions eventually destined for the Broadway theater district.
Beyond that, a variety of museums and cultural institutions add to the ongoing cultural and societal activities, or just plain fun.

But, not everything is indoors despite the sometimes sever winter months dotted with lake-effect snowstorms coming off the Great Lakes.

Fair-weather outings at the many lakes in the region -- Onondaga, Oneida, Cross, Otisco and others -- as well as in the marshlandsand along the historic Erie Canal are popular among fishermen, campers and hikers.

In the city of 160,000 residents, Armory Square is the center of non-university activities. The historic district offers shopping, dining and nightspots, as well as outdoor concerts and other events. It has its own Web site with a regularly-updated calendar of events throughout the year. It also has its own Columbus Circle (seen above) which gives it an offbeat architectural touch.

The city also has a domed stadium (the inflatable Carrier Dome at SU), a domed IMAX  theater, and the Great New York State Fair. The latter is the oldest continually-operating fair in the U.S.

As befits a town that revolves to a great deal around its educational institutions (see below), the most popular and successful eating places tend toward the casual. A great example is the Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, a funky, controlled chaotic place that has spawned offshoots in other cities, including New York.

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ON THE WEB
• SUNY Environmental Science & Forestry
• SUNY Institute of Technology
• Syracuse University
• Herkimer Diamond Mines

Experiencing Abundance In the Napa Valley

NAPA, CA -- To the outsider, the Napa Valley image is wall-to-wall grapes. To anyone traversing the valley on Route 29 or the parallel Silverado Trail, that is merely part of the inventory.

The moderate climate, affected by low mountains on either side and by the narrow Napa River that meanders through the cleft, nurtures brilliant clumps of lilies, oleander and roses, as well as stands of camphor, valley oak, cedar, magnolia and olive trees.

Despite its relatively diminutive size -- 30 miles long and one to five miles wide -- the Napa Valley's undulating topography creates a series of microclimates. Temperatures can differ by 10 or more degrees from one end to the other.

Swaths of browned-out vegetation form the floor of the woods and fields, in marked contrast to the deep blue-greens and brilliant emeralds of the numerous copses of trees dotting the landscape from this little city at the valley's southern edge to the village of Calistoga and its mineral and mud baths up north.

In February and March, the valley gets its share of precipitation. In summer and early autumn, rain is so rare the natives can tell you on what day in what year they last recall seeing a downpour.

"It was five years ago, on Aug. 16 ... No, it was on the 15th," the noted wine writer Dan Berger told a couple of visitors over breakfast one day. "Just enough to really be a pain."

Clever viniculture methods and irrigation systems have nevertheless made this spot an hour's drive northeast of San Francisco arguably America's premier wine producing area.

Such popular names as Robert Mondavi, Beringer, Stags Leap, Louis Martini, Chimney Rock, Franciscan, Coppola, Domaine Chandon and Sterling are among the 200 wineries in operation today, marked by their distinctive main-building architecture that ranges from Victorian farmhouse to French chateau to Tuscan villa to the "Star Wars" look of Mondavi's Opus One operation across the road from its main fields.

The valley's growing tourist popularity has fueled the rebirth of Napa, the anchor city of 53,000, and made the region home to such hospitality industry facilities as the Culinary Institute of America's West Coast branch, opened in 1995 in the former Greystone Cellars complex near the village of St. Helena.

Perhaps the most unusual facility in the valley, however, is something called COPIA, named for the Roman goddess of abundance who carried a cornucopia, the horn of plenty. The capitalization of its name serves to underscore that.

COPIA's subtitle is "The American Center for Wine, Food & The Arts." It's a not-for-profit cultural center and museum that has been open to the public less than two years. But, it got its start in 1988 when the legendary vintner Robert Mondavi and other Napa community leaders began kicking around the idea of a place to honor and explore the culinary and wine- making arts.

In 1996, Mondavi donated a 12-acre parcel of land in the city of Napa plus $20 million of the $55 million startup funding. The next year, Peggy Loar, who had been president of the United States International Council of Museums, was hired as director and began putting together her staff.

COPIA includes sprawling herb, flower and tree gardens, as well as several restaurants in the 80,000-square-foot building on the banks of an oxbow bend in the Napa River.

Daphne L. Derven, a native of Schenectady, NY, and a graduate of Skidmore College in Saratoga Springs, NY, is the curator of food and assistant director for programs.

"We're a non-collecting museum," she said, "and that keeps us on our toes to continually come up with new ways to educate and entertain our visitors.

"We've had showings of extensive collections of wine glasses over the years, for example, and right now we have 'Eating and Drinking in Splendor,' a collection of Georgian silver tableware and artifacts on display through the end of September."

Derven spent several decades as an archeologist in the field, with a particular interest in the impact of food on culture and vice-versa. Her experience is put to use in helping create the displays and programs at COPIA.

"It's a wonderful way of blending my years in the field with my institutional interests to help the public enjoy a visit," she said.

In addition to exhibition and event space, the center, open year-round, has many clever ways of appealing to visitors of all ages. The programs, guests and styles of entertainment are geared toward virtually any demographic group.

Formal or self-guided walking tours in the extensive herb and vegetable gardens -- home to an amazing 100 kinds of tomatoes and 40 kinds of lavender, for example -- show how the institution helps keep heirloom plant species alive.

Celebrity appearnces for book signings and demonstrations are commonplace, most recently from the likes of famed chef Jacques Pepin, TV's "Naked Chef" Jamie Oliver, and the iconic Julia Child, for whom one of the public restaurants here is named.

A fair-weather outdoor concert series offers music from salsa to West African to zydeco to New Age. Films in the "Friday Night Flicks" series range from French comedies to war zone documentaries to Tunisian belly dancing.

Wine tastings, beer tastings, food sampling and open displays that offer foodstuffs to sniff, feel and look at help explain why people's reactions to the same substances vary wildly.

COPIA may be in the heart of California wine country, but its venue is the world. Many visitors take full advantage of being plopped down in the middle of this temple dedicated to the senses.

A long, winding staircase leads from the first-floor atrium space to a floor divided among a formal exhibition of pre-Christianity wine vessels from Iran, an open- space display of turn-of-the-20th Century advertising artwork extolling the virtues of California products, and -- the most popular of all -- a large walled-off area called "Forks In the Road: Food, Wine and the American Table."

That's where kids and adults alike tend to flock when they're not involved in some formal program, lecture or film. It's a hands-on area replete with exhibits of cooking vessels, short films, electronic quiz stations sure to please youngsters reared on Xboxes, even a film loop splicing together famous movie mealtime scenes.

Want to hear oral histories of ethnic food in America, cooking for the military, making wine at home? Interested in the rise of convenience foods? It's all here. Visitors also can hear classic food songs, test their sense of smell, try to identify strange kitchen gadgets. They also can contribute their own thoughts on current topics in food, or share food-related stories which will be recorded.

Curious which states have wineries? They all do, now, and an interactive display lets you select which ones you want to know about.

The one trait all humans share is the need for food and drink. At COPIA, its history and its present are celebrated and experienced, going well beyond the struggle for survival to the exultation of the senses.

ON THE WEB

• Official COPA site
• California Wineries Directory
• California Wine Country Events
• California Cuisine
• Napa Valley.com
• California Wine Regions

The 2 Faces of Niagara Falls

World famous Niagara Falls, destination point for honeymooners, barrel-riders, artists and photographers -- straddles the U.S./Canadian border just north of Buffalo.

Its attractions range from the natural wonders of the falls to a honky-tonk atmosphere in some of the shopping areas.

Daytime views of the Falls are fun to see, and light shows focusing on the cascades at night are worth angling for good vantagepoints.

Pedestrian traffic across the bridge to the Canadian side once was  fairly casual. Now, under increased security, vehicle and pedestrian traffic can sometimes be held up by Customs inspections.

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ON THE WEB
• Niagara Falls Visitors Guide (Canada)
• Niagara Falls Visitors Guide (U.S.)
• Niagara University (U.S.)
• Dowd's Guides

Paris On the Nevada Desert

LAS VEGAS, NV -- The Vegas experience captivates people in a variety of ways.

Some come here to see the bright lights, glittering celebrities and architectural excesses. Some come here determined to view it as merely a monument to schlock and glitz and then go home to tell their friends and neighbors how tacky it all is. Some come here to get rich quick (a brief list of the successful ones' names available upon request).

The key element to all that, however, is that they do, indeed, come here by the millions.

And many stay. Las Vegas is the fastest growing metropolitan area in the United States. Never mind that half the year temperatures flirt with or exceed 100 degrees. (The simplest job here is being a TV weather forecaster: "The three-day outlook is 100-100-100 daytime, 70-70-70 nighttime, and clear around the clock.'')

And never mind that you are, after all, sitting in the middle of the desert and the thought keeps running through your mind that the bazillion gallons of water needed each day to keep this place alive might disappear suddenly.

Take someone like Kemis Dengler.

After selling off a successful Buffalo-area auto dealership and then running the Northern Chautauqua, NY, Chamber of Commerce for six years, Dengler decided that escaping the Lake Erie winters was more desirable then sticking them out. So, two summers ago he and his wife "retired'' and moved here.

"It was our dream place,'' Dengler said. "The atmosphere, the lack of snow, the excitement of Vegas.''

It was that excitement that finally got to him as more than a part-time attraction. He got antsy sitting around the house, so when it was announced that a version of Paris (yes, the city in France) was going to be built on Las Vegas Boulevard better known as The Strip. "I made an appointment with their human resources people to see what was available.''

His business background eventually landed him the job of manager of the Eiffel Tower portion of Paris. It was in that capacity that he was busy running around the new resort complex during the hectic Labor Day weekend grand opening.

The Strip's latest undertaking cost an estimated $785 million to create a 3,000-room hotel, a glittering casino, upscale shopping area, restaurants and scale models of several Parisian landmarks.

Mind-boggling as it is, it still is a bit understated by modern Vegas standards. Right across The Strip from Paris is the Bellagio, the richly appointed Italian-style complex that opened last year with a $1.4 billion price tag and a museum full of rare fine art by Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse.

And since Labor Day of last year, the Mandalay Bay resort has opened along with expansions and renovations of several older hotels and new work begun on the likes of the new Aladdin complex.

In all, since midsummer 1998, about 10,000 hotel rooms have been added to the Vegas panoply, and still the visitors keep coming. Over the recent Labor Day Weekend, the local Chamber of Commerce announced a phenomenal 92 percent room occupancy overall.

"Some people say the bubble has to burst any day now,'' Dengler said, "but I don't see any signs of it. People keep buying or building houses, businesses keep moving in, casino resort complexes keep opening up or expanding, jobs are plentiful, attendance is climbing ...''

Dengler kept being interrupted as his earpiece crackled with messages and questions from his staff of several dozen who tirelessly roamed around the Tower area of Paris, directing visitors, running elevators to viewing levels, preparing for the evening's dinner rush.

Large crowds had been expected for the first weekend of the town's latest wonder, and even the added human pressure of a holiday crowd was expected. But at least three times during the long weekend the city fire marshal's office had to turn back the throngs flocking to see Paris.

To even the most jaded, it is something special to see.

Ground was broken in April 1997 for the project, owned by the Hilton Hotels chain. The original announcement of the project was a year earlier, when Bally unveiled its plans. But shortly after that, Hilton purchased Bally, and development plans had to be re-evaluated.

Themed resort hotel/casino complexes have become the norm here, and they boast elements of world-class proportion. Since Vegas broke out of its original concentration around Fremont Street, several miles north of the current expansion area, and began stretching its borders with family-oriented attractions as well as the ubiquitous casinos, we have seen completion of some astounding projects:

New York, New York (2,020 rooms) replicates in scaled-down size a chunk of the Big Apple skyline complete with Brooklyn Bridge, Coney Island roller coaster and the Statue of Liberty.

The pyramid-shaped Luxor (4,407 rooms) is the world's third-largest hotel. It is 36 stories high, has a 29 million cubic foot atrium (the world's largest), and emits what is believed to be the world's brightest beam of light, comprising 45 Xenon lights.

The Excalibur (4,008 rooms), with its silk and swords Arthurian-era theme, has just added, incongruously, a 16,000-square-foot Nitro Grill eatery with a pro-wrestling theme.

The French Riviera-themed Monte Carlo (3,002 rooms) has the $27 million Lance Burton Theater built as a permanent home for the master magician.

Treasure Island (2,900 rooms) is best known for its huge Buccaneer Bay outdoor pirate battles that draw crowds 10-deep every 90 minutes.

The aforementioned Mandalay Bay (3,700) has a South Seas atmosphere and an 11-acre sand-and-surf beach.

Last year, the big noise was Bellagio (3,005 rooms) with its man-made 12-acre lake and computer-controlled dancing fountains. It's still heavily visited, but having Paris right across the street has eased the congestion a bit.

All this action has resulted in a gradual spruce-up of the old town, centered around Fremont Street. That's the Vegas of the old Sinatra Rat Pack and the Elvis movies. Many of the old casinos are gone, and those that stay are being reinvented.

The venerable Golden Nugget (which has been awarded a AAA "Four Diamond'' designation every year since 1974) still sits as the queen of Fremont Street. A two-block pedestrian area is now covered by a metal canopy across which flashes a laser light show every night, and which in the daytime provides shade for strollers. The area should be seen, if only for comparison to what's new.

But that isn't the only area trying to keep pace with the competition. Even such established Strip stalwarts as the MGM Grand Hotel and The Mirage are hard at work updating what doesn't look outdated.

The MGM, for example, just opened a new indoor lion habitat with a glass passageway visitors can use to walk through the habitat while the lions walk above, below and next to them. And The Mirage, home to Seigfried & Roy and their famous white tigers, is planning some upgrades in the next few months.,

Paris' offerings trump it all, however. They include a 50-story version of the Eiffel Tower, a two-thirds-size replica of the Arc de Triomphe (the original was built in 1805 to honor soldiers who fought in the Battle of Austerlitz), plus replicas of the 34-story Hotel de Ville (the real Paris' city hall), the Paris Opera House, the renowned Louvre museum (the original houses the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo), and several landmark fountains (one shown above).

The Eiffel Tower is, predictably, perhaps the most eye-catching part of the complex. It is located above the casino, with three legs poking inside and the fourth outside on Las Vegas Boulevard. There's a French restaurant on the 11th floor, and an observation deck on the top floor. Its construction coincided with the centennial anniversary of the original, built for the World's Fair to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the French Revolution.

France is known for many things from epic battles under Napolean to epic surrenders in 20th-century wars; for raising gracious living to an art form to living with the stereotype of endemic rudeness to Americans; from ... well, you get the idea. But, ahh, the food. A legitimate stereotype, and Paris has eight count 'em, eight restaurants in the new complex.

The Eiffel Tower Restaurant offers view from 100 feet up. Le Provencal is an Italian-French restaurant with singing waiters. LaChine is a Hong Kong-style restaurant. The luxury is sublime.

But what about the moneymaker, the place that subsidizes all else? The casino.

The Bonne Chance is a fascinating 83,000-square-foot space, designed to look as if you're strolling the streets of Paris at twilight assuming the city has suddenly had 2,000 slot machines plunked down outdoors.

A faux sky, cobblestone pathways, wrought-iron street lamps and period architecture set the mood. There are more than 100 gaming tables, plus the slots set among the Tower legs extending through the ceiling. There also is a special section for high-stakes games.

"As you can see,'' Dengler pointed out, "this is not a nickle slot place. It's for how can I put this? people with more disposable income than a lot of other places draw.''

You can enter from the street, or from the Vegas version of the Rue de la Paix and its meandering streets lined with shops, wine bars, boutiques and restaurants. Again, we have the faux sky providing a feeling of airiness and all storefronts look as if they're outdoors.

The Opera House area includes a 1,200-seat theater for nightly Vegas-style entertainment, but there also are laid-back areas, such as Le Cabaret Lounge, a bistro with live music, and Napolean's, a lush upscale club bar.

Oh, yes. The place isn't finished. A Vegas version of Notre Dame cathedral is expected to be added to the complex shortly after the new year begins.

Judging from the strong start, as long as the visitors want it they'll always have Paris.

ON THE WEB

• Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Tourist Authority
• Entertainment Guide
• Chamber of Commerce
• Las Vegas Leisure Guide
• History of the Las Vegas Trip